Egusi soup, the way our grandmothers made it

Good egusi begins with freshly milled melon seed. We whisk it with a little stock into a thick paste, then drop it into hot palm oil in spoonfuls so it sets into soft lumps rather than dissolving into the broth.

Assorted meat, stockfish and dried fish simmer separately until tender, and that liquor becomes the body of the soup. Crayfish, locust bean and fresh pepper carry the seasoning.

Bitter leaf or ugu goes in last, off the boil, so it stays green and fresh tasting. Serve with pounded yam, eba or fufu.

At Kay's Cuisines we cook egusi to order in small batches, which is why it tastes like a Sunday kitchen rather than a buffet tray.